Replace cuff

I started the re-making process by choosing my treatment - replace edge section (knit off downwards) - and the area of the garment I would work on - the cuff. The advice for the treatment told me that with such a fine knit (60 st/10cm), a 2-step decrease would be needed for the transition from existing to new fabric.

I used the new fabric gauge range tool to see what gauge my new fabric could be: between 15 st/10cm and 40 st/10cm. Looking at the yarns I had, I chose to use Rowan Pure Wool 4ply. The ball band told me I would get 28 st/10cm on 3.25mm needles, so I used that as my provisional new fabric gauge.

Next, I used the interactive version of the spacing tables to figure out my multiplier (28 st/10cm ÷ 60 st/10cm = 0.47) and look at the potential spacing options. My multiplier was halfway between two options: 0.44 (26 st/10cm) and 0.50 (30 st/10cm). I chose to go for 0.50, as it had more spacing options to choose from, and decided to knit on a smaller needle (3mm) to achieve this gauge.

From the options available, I chose to knit the first step at 3:2 ratio, and the second step at 4:3 ratio. Because the old fabric is super fine, the adapting notes advised me to work the first step as a plain transition. I looked at the 2-step decrease samples and chose to knit plain (2tog), then slip (3tog). Looking through the plain (2tog) and slip (3tog) treatment patterns, I chose the garter and TV Set patterns. 

I chose the TV Set transition because it reminded me of a something that I find really inspiring: Bohus knitting. I decided to use this inspiration to adapt and develop the TV Set transition, to create a fabric with more multi-coloured patterns and bobbles. 

To start to visualise what my cuff might look like, I photocopied the TV Set sample to the scale it would knit up (using the mock up calculator) and placed these copies alongside some buttons, to suggest the bobbles, and my chosen yarns:

Then, I started knitting, experimenting with bobbles, stripes and slipped stitches, and testing my tension. I'd had the idea of using some of the unravelled cuff yarn in a stripe, so I used a yarn of a similar colour in my samples. I learnt as I went along, and used more photocopies to help me:

I tried on the jumper and basted a guide line for where I wanted the cuff to start. When I'd finalised my design, I opened the seam and opened a row across the whole panel to remove the old cuff:

I measured the length and width of the old cuff. Then, I picked up the open stitches using a 0.7mm needle. I counted the stitches, and did some figuring out: how to place my design centrally and symmetrically, and how often to decrease to create the correct cuff shape.

I unravelled the old cuff a little, ironed it straight, and placed four strands together. I liked the re-used yarn so much, that I revised my design while I was knitting, to include a extra stripe.

I worked the rib without sampling - I figured that if I didn't like it, I could easily rip it back and re-knit. Happily, it turned out just right. I worked a stretchy cast off and finally stitched the seam using mattress stitch, and tidied away the ends: 

Check out the next step: add frills.